|
As the days get longer, your gardening impulses grow stronger.
Surrender to the forces of nature--it's time to design your flower
garden. Plant hardy varieties that will flourish without too
much trouble on your part. Remember to take shady or sunny
conditions into account in choosing a balance of annual and
perennial favorites.
Easy Annuals
One of the quickest ways to brighten and enrich your garden is to
snatch up some annual seedlings from your local nursery. As soon
as soil temperatures warm up, place seedlings in those bare spots
with rich compost or humus and wait for the abundant blooms to
emerge. Many annuals are prolific and hardy bloomers that will
thrive if kept watered in free-draining soil.
Impatiens.
With their low-to-the ground splendor, impatiens are
perfect for borders and edges. They multiply quickly in a blaze
of colors including white, shocking pink and fire engine red.
Impatiens prefer partial shade.
Daisy.
Dally with the daisy, a tough, drought resistant flower
of both perennial and annual lineage. The daisy family is a
large conglomeration of shapes, textures and sizes ranging from
the thick-leafed, thick-stemmed gebera African daisy to the
dazzling, bicolored gazanias. Daisies perform best in full sun.
Geranium.
This is a large, perennial family that varies widely
in size--the lower growing species make good ground cover. New
varieties sport uncommon shades of dark reds, raspberry-salmon
pinks, and orange-reds. Light requirements are full sun to
partial shade.
Zinnia.
Just when the rest of the garden is blanching under the
summer sun, the zinnia comes into its own, popping out in bright
blossoms ranging from pink, orange, and yellow, to scarlet, white
and bicolors. Various species display different petal shapes and
range from 6 to 36 inches in height. Zinnias prefer full sun,
dry air and heat.
Hardy Bulbs
Bulbs are perfect for the plant 'em and leave 'em crowd. Once
established, they perform reliably year after year. Their
distinctive shades offer the first glimpses of color in early
spring. But put these on your to-do list for later--planting
takes place in the late summer or fall. When planting, use a
trowel or bulb-planting tool to make a hole that's slightly
deeper than the recommended planting depth. Add a little sand
and set the bulb firmly to prevent air pockets.
Crocus.
These hardy dwarfs are early or late bloomers that do
well in borders and beneath shrubs, blooming in lavender, blue
and pale yellow. Sun to shade.
Narcissus.
Best known for the early-blooming daffodil, this
large family of bulbous plants grows just about anywhere in well-
drained soil but should be planted toward late summer. They like
full sun to partial shade.
Grape Hyacinth.
Unusual for its spires of tightly packed, deep
blue flowers, grape hyacinths look best planted in clumps. Sun
to shade.
Tulip.
These spring-flowering, goblet-shaped flowers have been
propogated for hundreds of years into many hybrid varieties.
They prefer full sun and alkaline soil.
Springtime Lawncare for the Lazy
Outdoor chores are looming large as winter draws to a close. Soon
the drone of lawnmowers will fill the air, as homeowners "start their
engines" for another season of lawn maintenance. Get started now
to achieve a thick, healthy carpet of turf that will resist weeds, pests
and diseases.
Mowing.
Start mowing as soon as grass begins active growth.
Adjust your mower's height to maintain a length of 2-3 inches.
Although you may prefer the appearance of a close-cropped lawn,
keeping the grass shorter than that is not worth the mowing. On
a sunny lawn, short grass allows sunlight to penetrate to the
soil and encourages weeds to germinate. And in the summer,
shorter blades hinder the grass plants' ability to disperse heat.
Maintain 3 inches of height on a sunny lawn to make the turf less
susceptible to weeds and drought.
Weeding.
Take a walk around the yard and inspect your lawn for
bare or weedy patches. It's important to control weeds now
before they get established. Fortunately, most broad-leafed
weeds are easily controlled by lawn herbicides. Make sure to
properly identify the invader--take a sample to the local nursery
if you're not sure--and treat with the appropriate product.
Follow all label directions carefully to avoid exposing yourself
or the environment to unnecessary risk. Don't fall into the
"more-is-better" misconception--apply only in the amount
specified by the label. Wait for a calm day so you won't
overspray nearby plants or shrubs. And pay attention to the
forecast because most herbicides should not be applied when
there's rain on the way. After treating, reseed any bare patches
but be sure to choose the same grass variety so you don't get a
patchwork lawn.
Feeding.
The care and feeding of your lawn depends on its
soil and chemical composition. Too much fertilization will release nutrients
into water bodies and is not good for the environment. And the
faster a lawn grows, the more time it takes to maintain. On the
other hand, nutrients that have been depleted over a season of
mowing need to be replaced. You don't want your turf to be pale,
thin and sparse. That's an invitation for weeds or diseases to
come back. One way to supply more nutrients is by using a
mulching mower that dices the grass blades in a fine mulch. If
you have a non-mulching mower, take off the bagger and mow often
enough so you're leaving shorter clippings that won't form a
thatch. On healthier lawns, a milder fertilizer with lower
nitrogen content may be sufficient, such as Milorganite.
Soil testing is the most accurate way to determine your
lawn's nutrient needs. Fertilize in the spring and fall.
Need Professional Lawn Care Help?
As a membership benefit, AHA
Plus Members receive valuable coupons worth over $150 from the
ServiceMaster Quality Service Network including AHA-approved
national companies like CHEMLAWN and TRUGREEN. To arrange for
service and savings from any of these companies, simply call the
easy-to-remember toll-free number. 1-800-WE-SERVE (1-800-937-
3783)
| 
